Tag Archives: travel

Overlooked Malaysia

American travelers seeking an East Asian trip with interesting culture, delicious food and affordable prices often default to Thailand or Vietnam. For a different vibe and a higher price, they may pick Japan or Korea. 

Few even consider Malaysia — but they should. 

We just visited Malaysia for the first time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It’s a comfortable, affordable, friendly place where English is widely spoken, the food is terrific, the nature is stunning, traveling is easy and cultural diversity is the norm. 

Malaysia has about 33 million people and a per capita GDP of about $12,000, making it an upper-middle income country. It’s modern, industrial and comfortable, especially in the urban areas where most people live. We traveled everywhere by Grab — like Uber, for a fraction of the price — paid with credit cards, used our smartphones and stayed in hotels and Airbnbs that were lovely but inexpensive. 

Malaysia is a long way from America and it gets hot. But especially during this tense moment in our own history, it has a lot to teach us with its tolerant blend of religions, regions and ethnicities. Malaysia combines Malay, Chinese and Indian influences into something unique.

We flew from Taipei to Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur, a region of nearly 9 million people and some of Asia’s tallest skyscrapers. The photo shows us beside the iconic Petronas Twin Towers renowned for their Islamic-inspired design.

We also visited the famous Batu Caves (see my video), the national museum, art galleries, Taoist temples, mosques and markets.

We then took a bus south to Malacca, which I described in an earlier post, before turning north to Penang. Along the way we stopped for a few days in Ipoh, where we visited cave temples, learned about the local tin industry and wandered night markets offering everything from fried insects to bubble tea. Our hotel was a restored mansion of a wealthy Chinese businessman.

Penang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, surprised us with its sparkling condominiums, fancy shops and general modernity, which has attracted expats from around the world. We stayed with Singaporean friends who now live there and had dinner with two former Peace Corps Volunteers who served in Malaysia in the past and retired there eight years ago.

We learned about Penang on a free walking tour, rode the funicular to the top of Penang Hill, visited the Kek Lok Si Temple, toured the Pinang Perinakan Mansion and sampled the city’s famously diverse cuisine. 

Finally we flew to East Malaysia on the island of Borneo, for a wildlife tour and two nights in a jungle lodge. We saw orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills, swarming bats and more — even a crocodile that had just started eating a python (Watch my video about our Sabah adventure.)

Americans who skip Malaysia are missing out on all this. If they look beyond the familiar travel brands and give it a try — as we finally did — they’re likely to wonder why they didn’t come sooner.

Super Taipei Bros.

Just months after China held massive military drills near Taiwan, you might expect young Taiwanese men like these to be obsessing about the possibility of going to war.

They were obsessing when we visited Taipei this past week, but it was about something else: video games, anime and manga. The extent of “ACG” culture (Animation, Comics and Games) in Taiwan’s capital astonished us.

As we strolled through an underground mall beside the central train station, we passed row after row of crowded stores selling games, action figures and anime merch. Parents lined up with their children to take photos with Ultraman. Teenagers poured coins into vending machines to buy gacha figures. Posters advertised new video games and consoles.

We’d expected to see stores selling clothing and souvenirs. Instead, we encountered an ACG jamboree, one that spilled outside to fan groups like the one you see below.

Anime and games are deeply embedded in Taiwan, and not only among young people. Large conventions in Taipei attract hundreds of thousands of people.

A thriving anime/gaming culture also exists in the United States, of course, but it retains some of its nerd subculture vibe rather than being so mainstream. Taiwan’s anime also retains strong cultural continuity with Japan while the American version is more closely aligned with domestic pop culture.

More than 80% of internet users in Taiwan engage with digital games. It’s no longer just a “youth” thing. A multi-billion dollar ecosystem has become a primary form of social currency.

Consumer brands, politicians and others in Taiwan now use ACG to reach younger consumers and voters. We saw this throughout our visit.

Are Taiwan’s young people turning to anime and games as a way to escape economic pressures and geopolitical threats? Not necessarily.

Screenshot

I was struck while in Taipei by how calm things seemed relative to China. The government has a “prepare without panicking” approach that takes national defense seriously while keeping young people and others focused on an economy that has achieved remarkable success, notably with computer chips and advanced technology. Many of the people I saw in the shops were probably busy the rest of the week with their studies and jobs, and their passion for games doesn’t mean they are unwilling to fight.

I visited Taipei briefly as a tourist, and I don’t speak Mandarin, so I’m hardly an expert on any of this. Still, it was interesting how few street signs I saw like the one above. I’d expected more. I came looking for war preparations but discovered these figurines instead. It wasn’t the Call of Duty I anticipated.

Taipei Video

We explored Taipei’s distinctive sites, history and culture during a 4-day visit. This video is also available on YouTube.

Click here to watch the video.

Nepal

I fell in love with Nepal more than 50 years ago — first as a trekker, then as a Peace Corps Volunteer. It’s the birthplace of my wife, Champa, and it remains close to my heart. I’ve returned to Nepal many times and have written about it often on this blog. Here are some favorite posts:

Animal Market

Bandipur

Champa’s Family

Cheese Factories

Currency, Changed Appearance

Death-Defying Mountain Taxis

Earthquake, 2015

Falgunanda and Limbu Religion

Family Trip Video 2015

Former Student Reaches Out After Years

Gorkha

Grandchildren Visit, Video, 2022

Ilam

Indigenous Filmmakers

Jomsom

Kathmandu

Maanghope Religious Ceremony

Momo Dumplings in Australia, New Zealand

Mountains Compared to Others Worldwide

NY Times Op-Ed Article I Wrote About Nepal

Peace Corps Service Compared to Moldova

Prosperity Relative to India

School, New, in Samalbung (with video)

Sunrise Peaks

Tika Ceremonies on the Forehead

Moldova

Located between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is a small country with a fascinating culture and history. I wrote about it often while serving there as a Peace Corps Volunteer in 2016-18 and continue to write about it occasionally. I’ve gathered some of these posts below. Moldova also features prominently in my book, Not Exactly Retired: A Life-Changing Journey on the Road and in the Peace Corps.

Bălți

Body Language in Meetings

Bulletin Boards as Info Source

Certificates, Omnipresence of

Cost of Living

Diamond Challenge Competition

Easter at the Cemetery

Egg Painting

Emigration From

Entrepreneurs

Exchange Rates

Expats Living in

Farmers Market

First Bell at Schools

“Frumos” and Beauty

Găgăuzia

Grocery Stores

Infographics, Growing Use of

Jewish Legacy

Jewish Museum

Language

Libraries, Changing Role

Marathon

Metro Superstores

Monasteries

Money Transfers

North Carolina Partnership

Our Lasting Impact

Plăcinte pastries

Political Sloganeering

Poștal Service

Reasons to Love

Return Visit to

Robots, Student Competition

Soroca

Street Signs Named for People

TV Story at Our NC Home

Tourism Industry

Traditional Music

Victory Day

Visual Design Aesthetics

Wine Consumption

World War Two Memorials

Travel

Travel changes your life. These selected posts from Not Exactly Retired discuss where to go, how to navigate and what to expect on the road:

Destinations

***

Airbnbs

Amazing but False Stories Tourists are Told

American Ethnocentricity

Assessing Danger of Foreign Travel

Combining Travel and Volunteering

Cruising at a Reasonable Price

Escaping U.S. Turmoil Overseas

Finding Your Travel ‘Tribe’

Learning From Travel

Phone Calls, Free Online Options

Places You Should Visit

Planning for Serendipity in Travel

Train Travel in Europe

Travel Personality Styles

Travel Planning is Half the Fun

Travel Surprises and Serendipity

Travel Tips

Travel, Fresh Perspective on Home

Travel, Seeing World with New Eyes

Traveling Beyond the Comfort Zone

Walking Tours, Free (1)

Walking Tours, Free (2)

Retirement

People are looking for new meaning in retirement, a trend that Not Exactly Retired has explored often. Here are some of the blog’s past posts on downsizing, lifelong education, medical challenges and other topics, along with several media profiles of us that also focused on retirement.

Profiles About Us that Discuss Retirement:

Money Magazine Newsletter

New York Times

“Second Act Stories” Podcast

“Third Act” Book

***

Not Exactly Retired Posts:

Coming of (Older) Age Novels

Decluttering

Focusing on the Positive

Giving Away Your Stuff

Helicopter Pilot’s New Life in Sri Lanka

Life’s Fragility and Cancer

Mulling What’s Next: Resources

Navigating Transitions

Older Peace Corps Volunteers

Online Learning; OLLI; Adult Education

Pandemic’s Impact on Older Travelers

Photo Archiving to Reduce Clutter

Ten Years Since Retirement

Traveling the “Hippie Trail” in the 1970s

Turning 65 in Moldova

Volunteering by Older Americans

While I’m Still Able

Destinations

Not Exactly Retired has featured destinations around the world. Here’s a selected list to help you find places that may interest you.

Alaska

Albania, Fancy Rest Stops

Amazing Places, Top Dozen

Argentina, and Chile

Argentina, Covid Memorial

Armenia

Asia, Southeast

Australia, Adelaide

Australia, Melbourne

Australia, Strikingly

Australia, Sydney

Austria

Balkans

Baltics

Bhutan

Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bulgaria

Cambodia, Craft Beer

Canada, Nova Scotia

Chile, and Argentina

Croatia, Plitvice

Croatia, Split and Dubrovnik

Croatia, Zagreb

Caribbean

Georgia

Georgia, Tbilisi

Georgia, Tbilisi, marionette theater

Hungary

Iceland (video)

Italy, Death Notices on Walls

Italy: Sorrento and Naples

Italy: Renaissance Art

Moldova

Morocco

Nepal

Netherlands, Amsterdam, Free Speech

New Zealand, North Island

New Zealand, South Island

North Carolina, Durham for Retirees

Portugal

Qatar

Romania, Bucharest

Romania, Iași 

Romania, Salt Mine, Trotus

Romania, Transylvania

Slovakia

Slovakia, Bratislava

Slovenia, Ljubljana

Sri Lanka, Video

Turkey, Istanbul

Ukraine, War, Europe’s Response

Ukraine, Odessa

Ukraine, Refugees in Moldova

Ukraine, Similarities to Moldova

United Arab Emirates, Autocracy

Vietnam

Caribbean Collateral

Did you hear what happened to the island nations near Venezuela after U.S. forces captured Nicolás Maduro in Caracas?

No? I didn’t think so. These islands suffered collateral damage but were largely ignored. Call them the Collaterisles.

Trinidad and Tobago is just seven miles from the Venezuelan coast. Aruba is 15 miles away. Curaçao, Bonaire and Grenada are a little further.

All were affected by the U.S. military action. American, Delta, United and other airlines canceled flights to the region. Cruise lines canceled visits. Thousands of American tourists were stranded. Local hotels, restaurants and other businesses lost critical income during their peak New Year holiday season.

Nations across the region expressed alarm about the U.S. military action, which they regarded as a violation of international law, but had to navigate the situation carefully. U.S. officials focused on Venezuela and said little about the broader impact. 

This didn’t surprise me. It’s what I’ve seen in other countries we’ve visited that suffered collateral damage from U.S. actions.

In Cambodia, the Khmer Rouge took power and unleashed a genocide following U.S. actions focused mainly on neighboring Vietnam. We visited the killing fields there, where these skulls, above, are part of a memorial. In Chile, U.S. Cold War concerns led to the overthrow of President Salvador Allende and the emergence of a brutal military dictatorship, as we saw documented at the Museo de la Memoria in Santiago, below.

In the Caribbean, U.S. military interventions have included Cuba, Haiti, the Dominican Republic, Grenada and others, all affecting the wider region. Fortunately, the latest events in Venezuela appear to be having a limited impact on its island neighbors, some of whom were probably happy to see Maduro ousted from power. I don’t claim to be a Latin American expert and I don’t really know, but the script felt familiar when we visited there last month.

Champa and I just returned from a Southern Caribbean cruise we booked mainly to visit friends in Grenada and Trinidad. (The unexpected bonus was escaping a winter storm back home.)

As you can see in the photo, we spent a wonderful day with our Grenadian friend Glenda. Champa worked with her in Maryland many years ago and we’ve been friends ever since. We were delighted to finally visit her beautiful Spice Island home, below, and meet her sister, Carol.

Our planned stop in Trinidad, on the other hand, was canceled because of the situation in Venezuela. Our cruise stopped instead in Antigua, which was lovely but not where we wanted to go. It turned out we would have missed our Trinidadian friends anyway, and we hope to visit them in the future, but it was annoying to have our plans changed by a situation that had nothing to do with Trinidad.

Rescheduling a cruise stop is decidedly a first world problem, but economic hardship for a developing economy is more serious. Genocide and military dictatorships are far worse. All can result when smaller nations get in the way of superpowers pursuing their perceived interests. We also saw this while living in Moldova, which spent decades under Soviet rule and is still resisting Russian domination.

Smaller nations are like the dishes that smash when a bull rampages through a china shop. The bull may not intend harm, or even notice it, but the dishes smash just the same. Halfway around the world from China, Venezuela’s island neighbors illustrate this broken china dilemma. They are shards of truth reflecting how precarious it can be to live nearby when a superpower takes action.

Cruise Control

I never expected to become someone who likes cruising.

Whenever I saw a television ad featuring adrenaline-filled action and frantic gaiety on a giant cruise ship, I thought to myself: “that’s not for me.” The idea of being trapped in a confined space with thousands of strangers, visiting ports on a crowded tour bus rather than on my own, was unappealing. I didn’t even need to see the drunken conga line.

I’ve been surprised, therefore, to discover how much I enjoy an occasional cruise, especially as a way to visit multiple places that are challenging to reach otherwise, such as in Alaska (shown below), the Caribbean or the Greek islands.

Could I organize such a trip myself? Sure, but it’s easier on a cruise ship, where Champa and I can unpack once and wake up every morning with a new location to explore. We generally have only one day in each port, but that’s enough to get a taste of a place. When we cruised around southeastern Australia a year ago, for instance, we spent several busy hours daily in Melbourne, Adelaide and other stops. We didn’t see everything but we saw a lot.

I planned these excursions myself, studying beforehand what to see and how to get there. We ended up seeing more than we would have on one of the excursions organized by the ship, without a crowd, for a fraction of the price. We made good use of local tourist offices, free walking tours, city apps, Uber, Google Maps and other resources.

Overpriced port excursions aren’t the only thing we avoid on cruise ships, which make much of their money from selling extras. We exercise cruise control with everything. We don’t buy the photo packages, gamble in the casinos, get expensive spa treatments, attend art auctions or shop at the onboard boutiques. Instead of spending hundreds or thousands of dollars during the cruise, like many passengers, we spend little or nothing. We also don’t stay in the fanciest cabins, although we do prefer cabins with a window. 

Cruise lines vary widely in what they offer. Some provide all-inclusive experiences with caviar and butlers. We can’t afford those and probably would feel out of place even if we could.

At the other end of the spectrum, we also felt out of place on a Carnival Cruise we took from Charleston to the Bahamas. That ship’s party vibe, as shown in the top photo, was intense and the upselling was relentless. But Charleston was near our home and we got an incredible deal, so we enjoyed it nonetheless. We’ve also sailed on some less conventional ships, such as the one shown here that took us along the Mekong River from Laos to Thailand, or an overnight trip on Vietnam’s Halong Bay. Both of those were memorable and fun.

Are we being cheap or denying ourselves the full cruise experience with our approach? Honestly, it doesn’t feel that way, at least to us. We’re not missing out on anything we care about. We’re eating good meals, watching free shows, listening to free music, working out in the gym, chatting with nice people and relaxing onboard. We have a good time, subsidized by the many passengers who choose to indulge in the various services.

When you view a cruise primarily as transportation, it can be a surprisingly good way to travel in certain situations.

We’re about to leave on our latest cruise, to the southern Caribbean. We chose it because we wanted to visit friends in both Grenada and Trinidad, as well as some neighboring islands. We considered flying or taking long ferry rides from island to island, but it was vastly easier to do this, and probably cheaper, too.

Unfortunately, several ports on our itinerary are near Venezuela. One has already been switched out for security reasons following the U.S. attack there. We’re crossing our fingers that everything goes smoothly.

In the meantime, I’m reviewing the ship’s dinner menu online and considering what to order our first night on board. The lobster bisque looks good.