Not Exactly Portlandia

At first glance, Oregon matched its stereotype when we visited last week: a coffee-sipping, beer-brewing, wine-tasting paradise filled with hikers and bicyclists wearing Patagonia jackets and REI backpacks.

But then we discovered an Oregon far more diverse than Portlandia, the comedy television series that portrayed a haven for eccentric hipsters.

We went there to attend the beautiful wedding of our niece and her husband, who live in Portland and celebrated in Hood River, about an hour to the east along the Columbia River. Hood River is one of the world’s top windsurfing spots, filled with breweries, coffee shops, art studios and restaurants. While there, we also toured the Bonneville Dam, the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and other sites,

We enjoyed every minute, the wedding most of all, and thought “so this is Oregon.” We were right, but only partly right.

Less than three hours to the south was Bend, which we reached after stopping en route to see the majestic Timberline Lodge beside Mt. Hood (above) and Cove Palisades State Park. Bend had a similar high-end outdoorsy vibe but its landscape was very different — a high desert with sagebrush, hardy grasses and lava flows. We spent one day exploring Newberry National Volcanic National Monument, then another amid the deep river canyons and sheer cliffs of Smith Rock State Park (below). They felt more like Arizona than the lush landscape we’d just left.

Next we headed west, passing through Sisters, which looks like a cowboy movie set. In the Willamette National Forest our environment changed anew, ominously, as smoke from a wildfire made our eyes tear up and our throats thicken even though we were wearing masks inside a car. We were relieved to reach Eugene, where we drove around the University of Oregon before continuing on to the coast.

The towns there reminded us of Mendocino and other spots in California, with the Pacific Ocean crashing below a winding highway dotted with lighthouses and beaches.

As we continued on to the Willamette Valley, the heart of Oregon’s wine industry, we thought again of California, ths time of Napa and Sonoma, but also of our favorite wine-growing region, Moldova.

Finally it was back to Portland to visit the Saturday Market, ride the tram, attend a Ukrainian festival and see old friends. We saw Voodoo Donuts and other famous sites, as well as a large homeless population, which we also encountered the next day during a quick stop in Oakland.

So, yes, Oregon has more than its share of kayakers and IPA enthusiasts, which are definitely worth seeing, but it’s got a lot more, too, including regions we didn’t get to. We brought home a bottle of Pinot Noir and look forward to toasting our happy memories of this surprising state.