Tag Archives: David Jarmul

Overlooked Malaysia

American travelers seeking an East Asian trip with interesting culture, delicious food and affordable prices often default to Thailand or Vietnam. For a different vibe and a higher price, they may pick Japan or Korea. 

Few even consider Malaysia — but they should. 

We just visited Malaysia for the first time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It’s a comfortable, affordable, friendly place where English is widely spoken, the food is terrific, the nature is stunning, traveling is easy and cultural diversity is the norm. 

Malaysia has about 33 million people and a per capita GDP of about $12,000, making it an upper-middle income country. It’s modern, industrial and comfortable, especially in the urban areas where most people live. We traveled everywhere by Grab — like Uber, for a fraction of the price — paid with credit cards, used our smartphones and stayed in hotels and Airbnbs that were lovely but inexpensive. 

Malaysia is a long way from America and it gets hot. But especially during this tense moment in our own history, it has a lot to teach us with its tolerant blend of religions, regions and ethnicities. Malaysia combines Malay, Chinese and Indian influences into something unique.

We flew from Taipei to Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur, a region of nearly 9 million people and some of Asia’s tallest skyscrapers. The photo shows us beside the iconic Petronas Twin Towers renowned for their Islamic-inspired design.

We also visited the famous Batu Caves (see my video), the national museum, art galleries, Taoist temples, mosques and markets.

We then took a bus south to Malacca, which I described in an earlier post, before turning north to Penang. Along the way we stopped for a few days in Ipoh, where we visited cave temples, learned about the local tin industry and wandered night markets offering everything from fried insects to bubble tea. Our hotel was a restored mansion of a wealthy Chinese businessman.

Penang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, surprised us with its sparkling condominiums, fancy shops and general modernity, which has attracted expats from around the world. We stayed with Singaporean friends who now live there and had dinner with two former Peace Corps Volunteers who served in Malaysia in the past and retired there eight years ago.

We learned about Penang on a free walking tour, rode the funicular to the top of Penang Hill, visited the Kek Lok Si Temple, toured the Pinang Perinakan Mansion and sampled the city’s famously diverse cuisine. 

Finally we flew to East Malaysia on the island of Borneo, for a wildlife tour and two nights in a jungle lodge. We saw orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills, swarming bats and more — even a crocodile that had just started eating a python (Watch my video about our Sabah adventure.)

Americans who skip Malaysia are missing out on all this. If they look beyond the familiar travel brands and give it a try — as we finally did — they’re likely to wonder why they didn’t come sooner.

Borneo Video

Swinging orangutans, bat swarms and a crocodile eating a python. We saw all this and more during our wildlife trip in Borneo. This video, also on YouTube, has the highlights. https://youtu.be/–oDbP3zB7w?si=sSUCF0GXOjF6Qpmp.

Batu Caves Video

The Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur are one of Malaysia’s most memorable sites. See why in this one-minute video on YouTube.

Strait Talk

Centuries before the current fighting in Hormuz, another strait was the focus of geopolitical competition. 

It’s the strait here in southwestern Malaysia beside the historic city of Malacca, also known as Melaka.

During the 15th and early 16th centuries, Malacca was arguably the most important port in the world. One look at this map explains why. 

Almost every ship traveling between the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea had to pass through the Strait of Malacca. 

Spices from the Moluccas, silks and porcelain from China, cloth from India and gold from Sumatra flowed through its markets. The local government developed an elaborate system for managing all of it. 

Many Malaccan traders and officials became rich. Champa and I came here on Friday and are staying in a hotel that was once the mansion of one of the wealthiest of them, Tam Kim Seng. As you can see, the building has been beautifully restored. (We had no idea of this when we booked it as a good deal online.)

Malacca’s wealth and strategic location attracted the attention of European powers that were just beginning to pursue their imperialist policies. The Portuguese conquered Malacca. Then the Dutch displaced them. Then the British. The Japanese took over during World War II before the British returned. Finally Malaysia achieved independence in 1957 and became the country we know a few years later.

If you’ve never heard of Malacca, that’s largely because nearby Singapore began displacing it in the 1800s because of its location, deeper port, friendlier trade policies and British preferences. Malacca faded and Singapore thrived. 

Today Malacca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a population of just under 1 million people. We’ve enjoyed exploring its temples, markets, river and other sites, some of which illustrate this post. It’s really a lovely place to visit. 

This unexpected history lesson has been a bonus and, given what’s happening in Hormuz, a welcome sense of perspective about the current turmoil.

To be sure, today’s global economy is far more interdependent and fragile than the spice ships that sailed to Malacca. Oil price spikes and stock market gyrations occur within hours, not months or years. 

But Malacca reminds us of the continuing truth that narrow waterways offer leverage, control of them brings economic power and outside nations often intervene to secure access. 

When you look at a globe and see the Strait of Gibraltar, the Turkish Straits, the southern entrance to the Red Sea and, especially, the Taiwan Strait, among others, this is a lesson worth remembering. Hormuz is not the only place where the strait and narrow can be dangerous.

Super Taipei Bros.

Just months after China held massive military drills near Taiwan, you might expect young Taiwanese men like these to be obsessing about the possibility of going to war.

They were obsessing when we visited Taipei this past week, but it was about something else: video games, anime and manga. The extent of “ACG” culture (Animation, Comics and Games) in Taiwan’s capital astonished us.

As we strolled through an underground mall beside the central train station, we passed row after row of crowded stores selling games, action figures and anime merch. Parents lined up with their children to take photos with Ultraman. Teenagers poured coins into vending machines to buy gacha figures. Posters advertised new video games and consoles.

We’d expected to see stores selling clothing and souvenirs. Instead, we encountered an ACG jamboree, one that spilled outside to fan groups like the one you see below.

Anime and games are deeply embedded in Taiwan, and not only among young people. Large conventions in Taipei attract hundreds of thousands of people.

A thriving anime/gaming culture also exists in the United States, of course, but it retains some of its nerd subculture vibe rather than being so mainstream. Taiwan’s anime also retains strong cultural continuity with Japan while the American version is more closely aligned with domestic pop culture.

More than 80% of internet users in Taiwan engage with digital games. It’s no longer just a “youth” thing. A multi-billion dollar ecosystem has become a primary form of social currency.

Consumer brands, politicians and others in Taiwan now use ACG to reach younger consumers and voters. We saw this throughout our visit.

Are Taiwan’s young people turning to anime and games as a way to escape economic pressures and geopolitical threats? Not necessarily.

Screenshot

I was struck while in Taipei by how calm things seemed relative to China. The government has a “prepare without panicking” approach that takes national defense seriously while keeping young people and others focused on an economy that has achieved remarkable success, notably with computer chips and advanced technology. Many of the people I saw in the shops were probably busy the rest of the week with their studies and jobs, and their passion for games doesn’t mean they are unwilling to fight.

I visited Taipei briefly as a tourist, and I don’t speak Mandarin, so I’m hardly an expert on any of this. Still, it was interesting how few street signs I saw like the one above. I’d expected more. I came looking for war preparations but discovered these figurines instead. It wasn’t the Call of Duty I anticipated.

Taipei Video

We explored Taipei’s distinctive sites, history and culture during a 4-day visit. This video is also available on YouTube.

Click here to watch the video.

Nepal

I fell in love with Nepal more than 50 years ago — first as a trekker, then as a Peace Corps Volunteer. It’s the birthplace of my wife, Champa, and it remains close to my heart. I’ve returned to Nepal many times and have written about it often on this blog. Here are some favorite posts:

Animal Market

Bandipur

Champa’s Family

Cheese Factories

Currency, Changed Appearance

Death-Defying Mountain Taxis

Earthquake, 2015

Falgunanda and Limbu Religion

Family Trip Video 2015

Former Student Reaches Out After Years

Gorkha

Grandchildren Visit, Video, 2022

Ilam

Indigenous Filmmakers

Jomsom

Kathmandu

Maanghope Religious Ceremony

Momo Dumplings in Australia, New Zealand

Mountains Compared to Others Worldwide

NY Times Op-Ed Article I Wrote About Nepal

Peace Corps Service Compared to Moldova

Prosperity Relative to India

School, New, in Samalbung (with video)

Sunrise Peaks

Tika Ceremonies on the Forehead

Moldova

Located between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is a small country with a fascinating culture and history. I wrote about it often while serving there as a Peace Corps Volunteer in 2016-18 and continue to write about it occasionally. I’ve gathered some of these posts below. Moldova also features prominently in my book, Not Exactly Retired: A Life-Changing Journey on the Road and in the Peace Corps.

Bălți

Body Language in Meetings

Bulletin Boards as Info Source

Certificates, Omnipresence of

Cost of Living

Diamond Challenge Competition

Easter at the Cemetery

Egg Painting

Emigration From

Entrepreneurs

Exchange Rates

Expats Living in

Farmers Market

First Bell at Schools

“Frumos” and Beauty

Găgăuzia

Grocery Stores

Infographics, Growing Use of

Jewish Legacy

Jewish Museum

Language

Libraries, Changing Role

Marathon

Metro Superstores

Monasteries

Money Transfers

North Carolina Partnership

Our Lasting Impact

Plăcinte pastries

Political Sloganeering

Poștal Service

Reasons to Love

Return Visit to

Robots, Student Competition

Soroca

Street Signs Named for People

TV Story at Our NC Home

Tourism Industry

Traditional Music

Victory Day

Visual Design Aesthetics

Wine Consumption

World War Two Memorials

Fascism. Dating. AI. Yay!

Not Exactly Retired covers a lot more than travel and retirement. Here are some posts from the archive on everything from cutesy language (yay!) to the allure of reality TV dating shows:

AI’s Creepy Accuracy

Avoiding Cable News

Champa’s Paintings

Customer Service, How to Win with

Cutesy Language. Yay! Awesome!

Globalization of our Dinner Plates

The Good Around Us

Goodbye to Paper

Hand-Written Greeting Cards

Lasting Impact of Volunteering

Liberty’s Sunset in U.S.

Op-Ed Articles, How to Write

Partying as Fascism Approaches

The Power of Stories

Reality TV Dating Shows

Our New Look

Not Exactly Retired has a new look.

After more than ten years and 400 posts, the blog now has a colorful new banner on the top, clearer navigation and new story collections. I’ve been releasing these collections — on travel, retirement and other topics — during the past few weeks, with a few more to follow.

I hope these changes make it easier for you to find posts or videos that interest you and tempt you to see what’s in the archive.

Last year was Not Exactly Retired’s best ever in terms of readership. If you’re enjoying it, tell a friend! As always, it’s free to subscribe and there’s no advertising.

Please let me know what you think of the makeover and, as always, thanks for visiting.