Can you guess what question I’m asked most often in Moldova, especially by other Americans?
It’s this: How have I found it different being a Peace Corps volunteer now compared to when I served in Nepal four decades ago?
My short answer is that the experience feels very familiar. As before, I’ve left my family and America to serve people in another country, learning their language and sharing their daily lives.
But serving in Moldova has also been very different from my stint in Nepal in the late 1970s. Here are six of the biggest changes I’ve seen:
- I am much more connected to the outside world. I have a smart phone, a laptop and a Kindle, all linked to wifi. I talk regularly with my family. I am following the U.S. election campaign and other news. I interact online with my Moldovan partners and Peace Corps colleagues. In contrast, when I served in Nepal I did not call home even once. The Internet did not exist. I was very alone.
- Safety and security have become a much bigger deal. Neither terrorism nor street crime are serious problems in Moldova, yet our training was filled with security briefings. We were given detailed emergency action plans. I can’t leave my post overnight without notifying the staff. I can’t even enter the Peace Corps office without passing through a locked gate, a guard and a metal detector. In Nepal, I used to ride my bicycle past a front gate nominally staffed by a guard, then strolled inside.
- The infrastructure is more elaborate. My desk is piled with Romanian language workbooks, brochures on Moldovan culture, a “volunteerism action guide” and more. I have dozens more resources on a thumb drive Peace Corps gave me, not to mention the documents we received before we arrived here. There are detailed protocols for everything from paying a language tutor to taking a trip. In Nepal, our training was also excellent, but we had fewer resources and a lot less red tape.
- I’m in a different country. Moldova is in eastern Europe, with an agricultural economy best known for wine. Its population is almost entirely white and Orthodox Christian. Nepal is in the Himalayas and mainly Hindu, along with Buddhists, Christians and Muslims. Both countries have delicious food, interesting people and fascinating customs, but they are as different as can be, except for the fact they are both landlocked — Moldova between Romania and Ukraine, Nepal between India and China. Inevitably, the Peace Corps experience is different, too.
- The world has changed over the past four decades. When I served in Nepal, the country was ruled by a king, who had not yet been murdered by his son. Now it’s a struggling democracy. The United States was still in a Cold War with the Soviet Union, which included Moldova. China was poor. Personal computers were new. Gay people could not get married. The idea of an African American or woman president back home was almost unimaginable. After four decades, the world is a different place. Peace Corps has evolved with it, such as by launching programs to combat HIV/AIDS or to “let girls learn.”
- I have changed. I saved this one for last because it’s the variable that affects everything else. When I joined the Peace Corps in Nepal, I was two years out of college, single and eager to save the world. Now I am a father and grandfather, serving with my wife of 37 years, who I met in Nepal. I am older and hopefully a bit wiser. In any case, I’m in a different place in my life, and not only geographically.
So, yes, I can now watch YouTube videos instead of fiddling with a shortwave radio to find a signal from the BBC or the Voice of America. But at least for me, Peace Corps still feels like “the toughest job you’ll ever love,” with the same beating heart. Once again, I’m working alongside a wonderful group of Americans who have taken a break from their lives to serve others and represent our country. Once again, I feel privileged to be among them.
Who knows? Perhaps there’s even a new form I’m supposed to fill out to confirm this.
12 thoughts on “Peace Corps: Now vs. Then”
Love living vicariously through you two! Thanks for the food for thought, I enjoyed reading this!
I’m an RPCV Uganda 1971-71 and 2013-15 and agree with pretty much everything you point out. My first time the only electrical thing I brought was the light meter in my camera. This time I had a confusing mess of chargers, connectors, cell phone, computer etc. Ditto the stuff about security and safety. My first time was with Idi Amin and security in Uganda was “interesting”. Being 42 years older made a huge difference, too, but I have absolutely no regrets about either time.
Enjoyed your insights. I read posts all the time from PCV’s talking about their phones, computers and I recall the one bulb hanging from my one room would fade slowly in the early evening which signaled it was time for the candles. So I can see that there has been some tightening up.
Really enjoyed reading your experience in both countries what’s amazing is that you and your wife are willing and able to leave the comfort of the U.S. to serve people who need help. Nancy and I miss you and your wife.
Homaji, what a wonderful surprise to hear from you! Champa and I were delighted to see the message. We hope everything is going well with you and Nancy, and also with Kiran and her family. Please give our best to all of them. We hope we will see you again after we return in mid-2018!
This was really great for me to read! I am a future Peace Corps Volunteer in Mongolia and reading about your experiences serving in the Peace Corps on two different occasions has made me very excited for my upcoming service!
Thanks for the message, Lindsey, and good luck with Peace Corps in Mongolia. It sounds like an amazing opportunity. I am sure you will love it!
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My 1960s PCV experience was in a village with no electric, no running water, etc. I remember vividly fiddling with short wave night after night until I finally tuned in the newly released “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds”. But that so many now have a PCV experience that includes electronics seems an indication that the world is a much less remote place now than it was then, and that in the global connections made over the intervening decades, there is much hope for an evermore equitable future.
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