The Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur are one of Malaysia’s most memorable sites. See why in this one-minute video on YouTube.
The Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur are one of Malaysia’s most memorable sites. See why in this one-minute video on YouTube.
Centuries before the current fighting in Hormuz, another strait was the focus of geopolitical competition.
It’s the strait here in southwestern Malaysia beside the historic city of Malacca, also known as Melaka.
During the 15th and early 16th centuries, Malacca was arguably the most important port in the world. One look at this map explains why.

Almost every ship traveling between the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea had to pass through the Strait of Malacca.
Spices from the Moluccas, silks and porcelain from China, cloth from India and gold from Sumatra flowed through its markets. The local government developed an elaborate system for managing all of it.

Many Malaccan traders and officials became rich. Champa and I came here on Friday and are staying in a hotel that was once the mansion of one of the wealthiest of them, Tam Kim Seng. As you can see, the building has been beautifully restored. (We had no idea of this when we booked it as a good deal online.)


Malacca’s wealth and strategic location attracted the attention of European powers that were just beginning to pursue their imperialist policies. The Portuguese conquered Malacca. Then the Dutch displaced them. Then the British. The Japanese took over during World War II before the British returned. Finally Malaysia achieved independence in 1957 and became the country we know a few years later.

If you’ve never heard of Malacca, that’s largely because nearby Singapore began displacing it in the 1800s because of its location, deeper port, friendlier trade policies and British preferences. Malacca faded and Singapore thrived.
Today Malacca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a population of just under 1 million people. We’ve enjoyed exploring its temples, markets, river and other sites, some of which illustrate this post. It’s really a lovely place to visit.


This unexpected history lesson has been a bonus and, given what’s happening in Hormuz, a welcome sense of perspective about the current turmoil.
To be sure, today’s global economy is far more interdependent and fragile than the spice ships that sailed to Malacca. Oil price spikes and stock market gyrations occur within hours, not months or years.

But Malacca reminds us of the continuing truth that narrow waterways offer leverage, control of them brings economic power and outside nations often intervene to secure access.
When you look at a globe and see the Strait of Gibraltar, the Turkish Straits, the southern entrance to the Red Sea and, especially, the Taiwan Strait, among others, this is a lesson worth remembering. Hormuz is not the only place where the strait and narrow can be dangerous.
Just months after China held massive military drills near Taiwan, you might expect young Taiwanese men like these to be obsessing about the possibility of going to war.
They were obsessing when we visited Taipei this past week, but it was about something else: video games, anime and manga. The extent of “ACG” culture (Animation, Comics and Games) in Taiwan’s capital astonished us.


As we strolled through an underground mall beside the central train station, we passed row after row of crowded stores selling games, action figures and anime merch. Parents lined up with their children to take photos with Ultraman. Teenagers poured coins into vending machines to buy gacha figures. Posters advertised new video games and consoles.
We’d expected to see stores selling clothing and souvenirs. Instead, we encountered an ACG jamboree, one that spilled outside to fan groups like the one you see below.

Anime and games are deeply embedded in Taiwan, and not only among young people. Large conventions in Taipei attract hundreds of thousands of people.
A thriving anime/gaming culture also exists in the United States, of course, but it retains some of its nerd subculture vibe rather than being so mainstream. Taiwan’s anime also retains strong cultural continuity with Japan while the American version is more closely aligned with domestic pop culture.
More than 80% of internet users in Taiwan engage with digital games. It’s no longer just a “youth” thing. A multi-billion dollar ecosystem has become a primary form of social currency.

Consumer brands, politicians and others in Taiwan now use ACG to reach younger consumers and voters. We saw this throughout our visit.
Are Taiwan’s young people turning to anime and games as a way to escape economic pressures and geopolitical threats? Not necessarily.

I was struck while in Taipei by how calm things seemed relative to China. The government has a “prepare without panicking” approach that takes national defense seriously while keeping young people and others focused on an economy that has achieved remarkable success, notably with computer chips and advanced technology. Many of the people I saw in the shops were probably busy the rest of the week with their studies and jobs, and their passion for games doesn’t mean they are unwilling to fight.

I visited Taipei briefly as a tourist, and I don’t speak Mandarin, so I’m hardly an expert on any of this. Still, it was interesting how few street signs I saw like the one above. I’d expected more. I came looking for war preparations but discovered these figurines instead. It wasn’t the Call of Duty I anticipated.

We explored Taipei’s distinctive sites, history and culture during a 4-day visit. This video is also available on YouTube.

I fell in love with Nepal more than 50 years ago — first as a trekker, then as a Peace Corps Volunteer. It’s the birthplace of my wife, Champa, and it remains close to my heart. I’ve returned to Nepal many times and have written about it often on this blog. Here are some favorite posts:
Former Student Reaches Out After Years
Grandchildren Visit, Video, 2022
Momo Dumplings in Australia, New Zealand
Mountains Compared to Others Worldwide
NY Times Op-Ed Article I Wrote About Nepal
Peace Corps Service Compared to Moldova
Located between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is a small country with a fascinating culture and history. I wrote about it often while serving there as a Peace Corps Volunteer in 2016-18 and continue to write about it occasionally. I’ve gathered some of these posts below. Moldova also features prominently in my book, Not Exactly Retired: A Life-Changing Journey on the Road and in the Peace Corps.
Not Exactly Retired covers a lot more than travel and retirement. Here are some posts from the archive on everything from cutesy language (yay!) to the allure of reality TV dating shows:
Customer Service, How to Win with
Cutesy Language. Yay! Awesome!
Globalization of our Dinner Plates
Lasting Impact of Volunteering
Not Exactly Retired has a new look.
After more than ten years and 400 posts, the blog now has a colorful new banner on the top, clearer navigation and new story collections. I’ve been releasing these collections — on travel, retirement and other topics — during the past few weeks, with a few more to follow.
I hope these changes make it easier for you to find posts or videos that interest you and tempt you to see what’s in the archive.
Last year was Not Exactly Retired’s best ever in terms of readership. If you’re enjoying it, tell a friend! As always, it’s free to subscribe and there’s no advertising.
Please let me know what you think of the makeover and, as always, thanks for visiting.
Travel changes your life. These selected posts from Not Exactly Retired discuss where to go, how to navigate and what to expect on the road:
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Amazing but False Stories Tourists are Told
Assessing Danger of Foreign Travel
Combining Travel and Volunteering
Cruising at a Reasonable Price
Escaping U.S. Turmoil Overseas
Phone Calls, Free Online Options
Planning for Serendipity in Travel
Travel Planning is Half the Fun
Travel Surprises and Serendipity
Travel, Fresh Perspective on Home
Travel, Seeing World with New Eyes
I served twice as a Peace Corps Volunteer — in Nepal and Moldova — and have been active in the Peace Corps community. Here are some of my posts about what it means to be a Volunteer and how Peace Corps service has changed
Older Peace Corps Volunteers — a special section
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Balancing the Three Peace Corps Goals
Champa’s “Full Circle” with Peace Corps
How Tech Changes the PCV Experience
Peace Corps Macho, Glorifying Sickness