Tag Archives: Taiwan

Six Things I Learned 

I learned a lot during our recent trip to Taipei, Malaysia, Indonesia and Manila — not only about these places, but about our own country, too. 

Here are six things I now understand more clearly:

Bandung, Indonesia

America is not the center of the universe. 

Our country has been so powerful for so long that it can seem like the universe revolves around us. But it doesn’t.

Many Americans are obsessed now with our political turmoil, and for good reason. When you leave home, though, you’re reminded that most people around the world are far more focused on other things. 

As I wrote while serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer several years ago, my Moldovan friends didn’t “care about American politics unless it affects them personally, which it rarely does. At least they know where America is, which is more than most Americans know about Moldova.”

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Did people ask us during our trip about President Trump, the war with Iran and other issues? Yes, and I plan to share some of those conversations in an upcoming post. 

But we were asked far more often about our family and other matters that had nothing to do with American politics. The television in our hotel was more likely to show a badminton match than CNN.

Recognizing this doesn’t mean our American passions are unimportant. It’s just a reminder that others generally don’t share them with the same intensity. 

Taipei. Taiwan

Countries are complicated. 

Is Alaska the same as Texas? Obviously not. Yet Americans often blur entire regions, such as Southeast Asia or Africa. They use phrases like “developing” to obscure immense diversity within places. 

The four countries we visited turned out to be significantly different. Taiwan is technologically advanced, orderly and democratic. Malaysia is striking for its multiculturalism and welcoming form of Islam. Indonesia has a huge population with diverse islands. The Philippines has strong cultural ties to both Spain and the United States. 

We saw many other differences within and across the countries as well. They can’t be reduced to sound bites and neither can other countries around the world.

Sandakan. Borneo

They have their own histories.  

America has been dominant not only in terms of its military, economy and political power, but also in its cultural imprint. Taylor Swift and LeBron James are more famous than many world leaders. 

It’s humbling, therefore, to come to a place like Southeast Asia and be reminded that they had sophisticated civilizations and complex histories long before Europeans arrived, much less McDonald’s. They were shaped by trade routes, empires and migrations that had nothing to do with us. 

Penang, Malaysia

The interactions among these countries were far more important until relatively recently. When Champa and I were in Malaysia, we stayed in a hotel that was once the mansion of a prominent Chinese businessman in Malacca. He and other Chinese immigrants played critical roles in the development of that city and others. The emigration of families from Taiwan centuries ago changed the face of the Philippines. Muslim traders reshaped Indonesia and Malaysia. The region’s majestic Hindu temples are reminders of India’s influence.

Once America did enter the picture, its impact was mixed. We liberated the region from brutal Japanese occupation during World War Two and provided essential economic and military assistance, notably to Taiwan in recent years. But we also employed scorched earth tactics to keep the Philippines under control in the early 1900s. We supported dictators like Ferdinand Marcos in the Philippines, Taiwan’s Chiang Kai-Shek and Indonesia’s Suharto. 

Taipei, Taiwan

There are far more people in Asia than in the United States.

Southeast Asia is among the most densely populated places on Earth. Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines have more people than the United States and Canada. Jakarta has more people than New York, Los Angeles, Chicago , Houston and Phoenix combined.

If you add in Vietnam, Thailand and other countries usually included in “Southeast Asia,” the comparison is even starker — and vastly more so if you include India, China and the rest of Asia.

Yet many Americans cannot place these countries on a map. Their visibility to us doesn’t align with their actual human scale. We regard our own lack of curiosity about other countries as normal and make jokes about it. Viewed from afar, our insularity is less amusing.

Harina train, Indonesia

Their economies are growing fast. 

The United States is generally wealthier than Southeast Asia, in some ways dramatically so. We saw heart-breaking poverty in several places. 

But we also saw new rail systems that operate efficiently. Most of the airports were modern and immaculate. Smartphones were ubiquitous. Mobile payment was common. Skyscrapers were everywhere. Many parks and other public spaces were spotless. Taiwan has the world’s leading computer chip factories and other countries in the region are also moving fast in the tech world. Millions of people are highly educated and middle class, or more.

So are we still ahead of them economically? Overall, yes … but that’s for now. 

Manila, Philippines

Travel gives us perspective. 

Probably my biggest take-away from this trip wasn’t about Southeast Asia per se but about travel generally. 

Champa and I have been privileged to travel widely. We’ve seen repeatedly that what seems true and universal in the United States — our politics and assumptions about the world — are culturally specific rather than inevitable. 

Especially at this moment when bombast and nationalism dominate our national conversation, it’s been therapeutic to view America with more distance, more nuance and less chest thumping. 

Yogyakarta, Indonesia

I love my country. I’m proud to have served it twice overseas. But I’m also proud to be part of this larger world, which lately feels saner in many ways than my homeland. 

We can learn a lot from other countries, even those that are “developing,” if we approach them with open eyes and open hearts. They remind us not only that the United States isn’t the center of the universe; it’s not even the center of our own small planet. 

Lawang Sewu, Indonesia

Top photo: Borobudur Temple, Indonesia

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Super Taipei Bros.

Just months after China held massive military drills near Taiwan, you might expect young Taiwanese men like these to be obsessing about the possibility of going to war.

They were obsessing when we visited Taipei this past week, but it was about something else: video games, anime and manga. The extent of “ACG” culture (Animation, Comics and Games) in Taiwan’s capital astonished us.

As we strolled through an underground mall beside the central train station, we passed row after row of crowded stores selling games, action figures and anime merch. Parents lined up with their children to take photos with Ultraman. Teenagers poured coins into vending machines to buy gacha figures. Posters advertised new video games and consoles.

We’d expected to see stores selling clothing and souvenirs. Instead, we encountered an ACG jamboree, one that spilled outside to fan groups like the one you see below.

Anime and games are deeply embedded in Taiwan, and not only among young people. Large conventions in Taipei attract hundreds of thousands of people.

A thriving anime/gaming culture also exists in the United States, of course, but it retains some of its nerd subculture vibe rather than being so mainstream. Taiwan’s anime also retains strong cultural continuity with Japan while the American version is more closely aligned with domestic pop culture.

More than 80% of internet users in Taiwan engage with digital games. It’s no longer just a “youth” thing. A multi-billion dollar ecosystem has become a primary form of social currency.

Consumer brands, politicians and others in Taiwan now use ACG to reach younger consumers and voters. We saw this throughout our visit.

Are Taiwan’s young people turning to anime and games as a way to escape economic pressures and geopolitical threats? Not necessarily.

Screenshot

I was struck while in Taipei by how calm things seemed relative to China. The government has a “prepare without panicking” approach that takes national defense seriously while keeping young people and others focused on an economy that has achieved remarkable success, notably with computer chips and advanced technology. Many of the people I saw in the shops were probably busy the rest of the week with their studies and jobs, and their passion for games doesn’t mean they are unwilling to fight.

I visited Taipei briefly as a tourist, and I don’t speak Mandarin, so I’m hardly an expert on any of this. Still, it was interesting how few street signs I saw like the one above. I’d expected more. I came looking for war preparations but discovered these figurines instead. It wasn’t the Call of Duty I anticipated.

Taipei Video

We explored Taipei’s distinctive sites, history and culture during a 4-day visit. This video is also available on YouTube.