I anticipated the tango dancers, wineries and Messi jerseys when Champa and I visited Argentina and Chile with my sisters and their husbands last month. I also knew that Patagonia’s glaciers, which are receding because of global warming, would still be amazing. (See my video below, which is also available on YouTube.)

However, I wasn’t quite ready for the thousand-peso notes and people obsessed with their dogs.

Both of these countries at the bottom of South America were beautiful but complicated. Argentina is savoring its recent World Cup triumph while grappling with rampant inflation and political division. Chile is more stable but still coping with the legacy of a brutal dictatorship. There’s a European vibe in both places, not to mention great steaks and wine — and all of those dogs.

We packed a lot into our 2-week itinerary, which we organized ourselves with help from an Argentine planner. We learned a lot, too.

We began in Buenos Aires, renting an Airbnb in Palermo near South America’s largest mosque. We took a city tour, then visited several places on our own, including parks, gardens and the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano, which had special exhibits about Frida Kahlo and Chilean artist Cecilia Vicuña. We traveled by international ferry one day to Colonia del Sacramento (below), where we enjoyed strolling and learning about Uruguayan history.

Next was Patagonia, whose mountains and landscapes were even more stunning than we expected. We spent a full day exploring the glaciers near El Calafate (below), by boat and on foot, and then another day hiking in El Chaltén, not far from where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid lived for several years. We also had memorable meals near a rugged, windswept hill and in a cave beside an archaeological site.

Then it was on to Bariloche, home of scenic mountain lakes, designer chocolates and Nazi war criminals. We stayed at the El Casco Art Hotel, where every room is devoted to an Argentine artist and the public spaces are filled with original paintings and sculptures.

Our final stop in Argentina was Mendoza, where we toured downtown plazas (below), visited wineries and shared a hotel with a visiting soccer team from Santiago whose boisterous fans gathered at the entrance.

Finally we traveled to Santiago, by bus so we could see local communities and the Andes Mountains. Despite some online warnings, the bus was luxurious and the border crossing manageable, with views far more interesting than we would have seen in an airport.

After arriving in Chile, we toured both Santiago and nearby Valparaiso (above), a historic port city abounding with colorful murals and street art. We rode a funicular to the top of Santiago’s San Cristóbal Hill and visited the Museum of Memory and Human Rights, which presents the grim history of the Pinochet dictatorship.

We saw a lot and could have seen more, such as Iguazu Falls and the Atacama Desert, if we’d had more time. Perhaps we should return. 

Perhaps you should visit, too, if you’re able. There’s no better place to escape winter in the northern hemisphere while immersing yourself in great history, culture, food and Malbec wines. The tango lessons and the dogs are optional.