Tag Archives: Casablanca

Circling Morocco

Morocco fascinated us when we visited last month on a 10-day clockwise trip from Casablanca to Marrakech. Here are ten things I’ll remember about this distinctive country in northwestern Africa.

The desert. We spent two unforgettable nights in the Erg Chebbi dunes of the Sahara, where we traveled atop camels. We had our own comfortable tent and delicious food, but we also had wind whipping our tent at night and camels grunting nearby. The next morning we visited local nomads and gazed on an endless horizon. Our American lives felt very far away. 

Amazing sights. Chefchaouen is Morocco’s Blue City. It has narrow streets and busy souks, but what captivates you are its blue walls and steps. Several hours away is Fez , which is much larger and browner, with bustling bazaars and one of the king’s many palaces. We also saw stone “monkey toes” in a mountain gorge, Roman ruins, roads snaking across mountainsides and much more

Natural beauty. Even more than the “sights,” we loved the land itself — the wildflowers, olive trees, wheat fields and fruit orchards. If you think of Morocco as just dry and dusty, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. It is strikingly diverse, with deserts and beach resorts, cities and farms, nomads and technology parks.

Islam. Morocco is also a place of religious moderation. Almost all of its people are Sunni Muslims, and there are mosques everywhere, with a welcoming, tolerant vibe. We toured the Bou Inania Madrasa, or religious school, in Fez and marveled at the beautiful Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, the second largest functioning mosque in Africa.

Handicrafts. We watched artisans build furniture, cure leather, weave rugs, assemble mosaics and paint ceramics. We admired their jewelry, clothing and tiles. Even though we didn’t buy much (we rarely do), Morocco is a shopper’s paradise.

Local markets. We loved wandering among the fruit stalls, spice shops and bakeries of everyday life. One image I shared online, which you can see above, shows a woman chopping meat as cats walk on her table. My friend who is an infectious disease expert at Duke responded in mock horror. He was right, but it was still interesting to see.

Movie sets. Lawrence of Arabia, Homeland, Game of Thrones and other productions have all shot scenes in Morocco. We visited Ouarzazate, a town between the Sahara desert and the Atlas Mountains that locals call Ouallywood. It offers exotic sets and everything else filmmakers might need.

Climate change. As we’ve discovered elsewhere, a good way to learn about global climate change is by actually visiting other parts of the globe. Morocco was no exception. Local nomads and others told us how drought has forced them to move. The photo on the left shows a town that is now largely abandoned.

Superb hotels and food. We stayed in beautiful places across Morocco but none were Western-style hotels. Morocco specilizes in traditional riads — small, distinctive and personal, with great breakfasts. We arranged everything with Best Travel Morocco, a local company that did a great job for less money than we would have paid a U.S.-based operator for a group tour with a similar itinerary.

Excellent companions. We explored Morocco with two old friends, Bob and Karen Simon, with whom we connected in Casablanca. The four of us traveled in a comfortable SUV with the private driver/guide provided by Best Travel. Mustafa took great care of us — explaining everything, making us laugh and guiding us to barbecue restaurants and other spots off the tourist trail. He also had a great Spotify playlist of local artists. Even without their music, Morocco made our hearts sing.