Moldovans sometimes ask me whether Champa and I like Moldova. When I tell them we’ve come to love Moldova and will miss it when we return home, they are often surprised.
Their eyebrows go up. Their eyes widen. “Really?” they ask in disbelief that an American might admire their country.
Yes, really.
Inevitably, they respond with “but what about”: But what about the bad roads? What about the overcrowded buses? What about the low salaries? What about so many people leaving the country to work elsewere? What about the corruption?
In a recent poll, 73 percent of Moldovans said the country is going in the wrong direction; 76 percent said young people do not have a good future.
These and other problems are very real. No question about it. But so is the beauty of Moldova’s countryside, its glorious churches, its delicious fruits, vegetables and wine. I love the laughter of its children. I love the grandmothers talking in the market, the mothers carrying babies, the dads holding their children’s hands. I love everyone’s hospitality and generosity.
I love so much about Moldova. It’s been a privilege to serve here. Champa and I are both grateful to have had this opportunity.
We will return in July to a country with profound problems of its own. Yet even though recent events have sometimes led me to despair, I have never wavered in my pride about my homeland. Yes, we have a messy democracy and corruption in our own politics. But we also have backyard barbecues, Saturday Night Live, Fourth of July parades and Little League. We have LeBron James and Beyonce, overstuffed aisles at Costco and food trucks lined up beside our farmer’s market in Durham.
Living abroad has reminded me how lucky I am to be an American.
I wish more Moldovans would recognize and celebrate the wonderful things about their country. After living here for two years, I’ve come to believe their biggest problem is not politics or the economy. It’s the “glass half empty” view of life I encounter so often. I’ve lived and traveled in other countries much poorer than Moldova, with deep challenges of their own, but the people I’ve met have generally been proud of their homelands. Here in Moldova, there is a “cloud of pessimism,” as Eric Weiner described in The Geography of Bliss. Not always, not with everyone, but often.
To my foreign eyes, Moldova’s negative self-image is out of alignment with its reality. Even recognizing its many challenges, I’ve come to know it as a beautiful place with dedicated, hard-working people who have the skills and hearts to make it prosper.
First, though, they have to believe in themselves. When they ask someone from another country whether they like Moldova, they have to expect the answer to be yes.
In any case, that’s my answer, and I know other Peace Corps Volunteers who feel the same way: I don’t just like Moldova; I love Moldova. Maybe that’s something Moldovans need to hear. Really.
Through your blog, I have come to love Moldova too. Thank you to you and Champa for sharing your service.
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Thanks Chrissy. I’m glad you’re enjoying the posts!
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I was just getting ready to forward this post to you, Chrissy, in case you hadn’t seen it! Thank you for introducing me to Moldova through this blog.
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This is a great post, David! I hope everything goes smoothly on your return. Jay
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Thanks Jay. I really appreciate the kind words. We look forward to seeing all of you before too long.
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David,
Thanks for your beautiful tribute to Moldova. You’re a decent person, with an appreciation for life’s simple but also profound pleasures.
Moldovans are probably related ethnically to Russians, and thus I’m not surprised they have a hard time believing you truly love their country. Russians too are notoriously inclined to look at the dark side of things.
They do love their own country (Kak strana), but whereas Americans and Europeans tell you first what’s good about their homeland, Russians tend to lead with what’s bad. Please forgive the gross generalizations, and may you and Champa enjoy the rest of your assignment in, and love affair with, Moldova.
Best, Steve
We
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Steve, it’s such a pleasure to hear from you. Thank you for this comment! I’m glad you liked the story. Most Moldovans are related ethnically to Romanians much more than to Russians, although there are many ethnic Russians here, too, and most Moldovans speak both Romanian and Russian. However, Moldova was part of the Soviet Union for several decades, so it shares much of the legacy of that historical period. Do you follow that? If so, you’re smarter than me; it can all be pretty confusing for an American living here …
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